Story by Joshua Elie
Since I’ve traveled so much, I’m often asked what the most “wonderful” place in the world is. My answer is always home, as in northwest Michigan, though if I didn’t love winter so much and if I enjoyed hot temperatures I would have to say the French Quarter, New Orleans, Louisiana.
You might conjure up the idea of Mardi Gras, and that is great if you are a kid and what you are looking for is the crazy, wild party. For the uninitiated, “Mardi Gras” is French for Fat Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday and the final day of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras celebrations. The partying typically begins on Twelfth Night (Epiphany) and culminates in a colorful parade of the loud, outrageous and fanciful.
But if you want to experience the real atmosphere of amazing music, friendly and relaxed people ⸺ and, of course, some of the greatest Cajun and Creole food in world ⸺ the best time to visit is before and after the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, held late April into May. That’s when you get the best of every music genre, and it’s easy to find a seat in all the clubs and restaurants.
When I would visit New Orleans, a typical day for me was waking up at the Decatur Inn. The sound of jazz ensembles already playing was my clue I was too late (again) for the continental breakfast down by the pool. Instead, I moseyed down below the inn and into the Voodoo Lounge for a beer and a shot of bourbon.
Watching the people strolling past encouraged me to make my way across the street and up to the balcony of the French Market for brunch. I never thought this possible, but from there I could listen to three jazz ensembles performing at the same time. Though they were playing different songs, it was somehow all harmonious.
After that, I just followed my ears. Musicians and ensembles lined every street. I remember making my way to the end of Decatur Street and stopping to listen for a bit here and there. I would pick up a Po-Boy or Muffaletta sandwich and a beer on my way to the church steps of Jackson Square, where a large group of jazz players performed on one side and on the other side a Zydeco band.
I stopped into a couple clubs as I made my way to Jazz Preservation Hall, an intimate club, where only the best in the world get to play.
As the sun set, the music would be door to door. Inside almost every door on Bourbon Street is a different club, and together the clubs offer every kind of music you can imagine. When morning dawned I would make my way back to the inn as crews were literally cleaning the sidewalks and streets, mopping them with soap and water.
Every day in the French Quarter is another party. The celebration of life never ends there, and they have parades for everything ⸺ even funerals. I haven’t been back since Hurricane Katrina. Some say it is different, some say it is the same. One thing’s for sure: the gumbo will still be spicy, the music will still be amazing, and the party will never end in the French Quarter.
Elie’s Shrimp Étouffée
(Étouffée is a Cajun stew of shellfish served on rice.)
Serves 4
Ingredients:
6 tablespoons salted butter
1/4 cup flour
1 cup chopped onion
1/2 cup chopped green pepper
1/2 cup chopped celery
1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
1 1/2 lbs. shelled shrimp
1/2 cup (1 stick) cold salted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup thinly sliced green shallot tops
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh parsley
1 cup cold water
Steamed or boiled rice for 4
Making sure you have everything prepped and measured before you start is vital to this recipe’s success. In a 5- to 6-quart pot or kettle, melt the 6 tablespoons of butter over low heat. Gradually add the flour, stirring constantly. Cook over low heat until medium brown, about 15-20 minutes. This creates what is called a “roux,” pronounced “roo.” Quickly add the onion, green pepper, celery, and garlic and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are glazed and tender (about 20 minutes). Add the shrimp, cold butter, salt, black pepper, cayenne, lemon juice, shallot tops and parsley. Mix well. Add 1 cup of cold water and start your rice while bringing the étouffée to a boil. Lower the heat on the étouffée and simmer for 12 minutes, or until the shrimp are just tender, stirring frequently. Serve in bowls. Pairs well with Dixieland jazz and hot sauce because some like it HOT!!!
Joshua Elie is a musician and retired building contractor. He now enjoys life as a homesteader.
