The Unsung Stretch of M-22

Scott and Lynn Brown, owners of GasolineRefind of Bear Lake. Photo by Milton F. Whitmore.

By Milton F. Whitmore

Northwest Michigan’s most celebrated scenic highway, M-22, has garnered many awards from tourist associations, chambers of commerce and others. This pleasant drive winds roughly parallel to Lake Michigan. The highway slips easily through small towns and villages such as Onekama, Arcadia, Frankfort and Empire, before circling the Leelanau Peninsula on its way to Traverse City. 

If you look through a list of “must see” attractions, you’ll find the Benzie and Leelanau portions of M-22 receive the most attention. Yet, the southern third of the highway in Manistee County has its own attractions. Little known points along M-22 can be found only a mile or so to the east and west of the highway.

Begin at the beginning

North of the City of Manistee lies the southernmost point of M-22. Start your journey here, at the Little River Casino Resort. Owned and operated by the Little River Band of Ottawa Indians, this destination includes a hotel, convention/entertainment center, pools, a spa and several dining options. The tribe’s RV campground and Trading Post (for gasoline and conveniences) also welcome visitors.

Heading north on M-22 about 2.5 miles, look to your left to see the bright-blue Flower Power cut-flower stand of fresh seasonal bouquets. Grown onsite, the colorful blooms brighten any space, including your car. Beyond the stand, a couple of bends in the road point you toward Portage Lake, the most frequently touted site along this portion of the highway. If you love flowers and plants, be sure to stop at Black Cap Nursery (on the east side of the highway) to see blooming native species. Getting thirsty? You’re almost to the beloved Blue Slipper Tavern. Across the street, MacBeth & Co. stocks housewares, clothing and gifts.

Onekama, the “Two Lake Town”

Following M-22 as it makes a sharp turn to the left, you’ll find yourself in the lakefront village of Onekama (pronounced, O-nek-a-ma), one of the gems along the M-22 necklace. Portage Lake is easy on the eye as it plies its way westward toward a channel into Lake Michigan. Townsfolk added several events in honor of the village’s sesquicentennial this year. (See our calendar of events. Look also for Onekama Days in August.)

In the business district, browse the new Kott’n Pickin’ Antiques and Décor, then head toJamey Barnard’s Handstand Gallery of original paintings, cards and tees. Refuel at Yellow Dog Café with specialty coffee drinks, unique sandwiches and baked goods offered seasonally. Next door, Patina boasts an imaginative, eclectic mix of repurposed home and garden décor. Hop across M-22 to Anchored Designs Boutique for Michigan gifts, artwork, clothing and more. One door away is Onekama Building Supply, for hardware and fix-it items. Finish with ice cream at Papa J’s and grab some logo wear at Lakeside Treats and Bait before heading to the Onekama Village Park to loiter at the water’s edge and see the 130-year-old merman fountain.

Around the bend and a bit further up the road is The Glenwood, a casual fine-dining destination. The restaurant is nestled comfortably inside a vintage Portage Lake cottage. Among the diverse menu selections are seafood offerings (almond shrimp!) and desserts. Practically a stone’s throw away is Glen Springs Mineral Park, on the west end of 4th Avenue. Follow the path to the hut. This is the first of several natural, free-flowing springs a traveler can encounter by veering slightly off the route.

Portage Point

Less than a mile away is Portage Point Road. Make a left turn here and follow the road as it heads west toward another roadside spring, a fieldstone edifice in the cedars, just past a rustic church retreat known as Little Eden Camp. Fill your water bottle then continue west to the historic inn at Portage Point Resort. Inside the building is Lahey’s Pub/Portage Point Cafe & Pizzeria. Pair craft beer, wines or specialty cocktails with the Herb Crusted Sicilian Pizza, Mid-East Chicken Skewers or sandwiches like the Muffoletta. (Unusual spelling, we know. Just try it!) Take your meal to the covered porch overlooking Portage Lake.

Back in your vehicle, continue heading west, behind the inn. The way gets narrow and curves along the steep side of a sand dune known as Angel Slide. (Watch for kids.) Continue to a sharp curve to the right at 2ndStreet, which dead ends at a Lake Michigan beach with hundreds of yards of pure sugar sand. Park in the lot, stroll to the channel pierhead and dive off the side, a local tradition.

Pierport and parts found

Reverse course and head back to M-22, where a left turn takes you on a northward climb. After several miles, turn right on Potter Road and follow one mile to Erdman Road. Turn left, and a little past the corner on the right is GasolineReFind. This interesting “resale” shop is small and crowded but well organized. The wide variety of “finds” takes time to go through. Owners Lynn and Scott Brown offer entertaining conversation. Even though there is a gasoline pump or two in front, don’t expect to fill up … as has happened from time to time.

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Turning back to Potter Road and to M-22, turn right (north) and follow for a mile to 13 Mile Road/County Road 600. Turn left and follow the curving, downhill route to Pierport. As you approach Lake Michigan, just past Lakeview Road on the left, you’ll find another spring of local renown, Old Facefull. It’s icy-cold and pure. Crystalline water is a joy to experience. Look for stones on the beach then back track to The Flower Farm At Pierport, on the corner of 13 Mile and Gear roads. You can never have too many flowers!

The road to Arcadia

Driving back to M-22, your left turn quickly takes you to The South Course at Arcadia Bluffs, on the right. This golfer’s delight offers a course design reminiscent of a bygone era, one only experienced today by the fortunate few at exclusive, private golf clubs. You must try it! The restaurant is noteworthy, too, with casual dining, enticing entrees, a full bar and a second-story view of the course.

Just up the highway, again heading north, you’ll reach the entrance to Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club.  A long drive leads to a panoramic view over the course, with majestic Lake Michigan to the west. Put into play in 1999, the course was designed to emulate authentic Irish links and give the golfer a genuine experience. The restaurant (casual dining again) offers an intriguing menu, and the food is superb. You can enjoy a dessert or cocktail on the deck while watching a Lake Michigan sunset and listening to a bagpiper’s haunting, mystic tunes. This is a memory that will last a lifetime.

Break away from this dreamworld and head again to M-22. Turn left for a short ride to Bischoff Road. Pines of Arcadia occasionally will open its nonprofit studio gallery doors for events and host artists in residence in summertime.  Check the gallery’s Facebook page for updates.

After your visit, head back to M-22 and turn left to a twisting, downhill jaunt. Soon Arcadia Lake, a distant church spire, and a wide expanse of marsh open to view. This is Arcadia, and the tiny village is worth investigating. As soon as you drive across the causeway, you’ll come to the Arcadia Marsh Nature Preserve, an ongoing project of the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy. The preserve encompasses one of the last Lake Michigan coastal marshes. With about three-quarters of a mile of elevated boardwalk, the marsh hike is a must-do experience.

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Nearby is Ketch 22, a newly minted, excellent food truck offering a variety of tasty fare. Follow them on their Facebook page for the latest offerings. Just up the highway, Arcadia Ice House offers some of the best ice cream along the entire M-22 corridor. Buy souvenirs, gifts and clothing at the adjoining Lily Pad Gift Shop.  (The Stoops’ family, owners of the Arcadia Marine, Arcadia Ice House and Lilypad Gift Shop, also host the Minnehaha Brewhaha, a microbrewed beer and music festival in September. Read about them in “Moving to the sound of Stoops’ music”.)

One of the finest opportunities to learn about the local history is found inside the Arcadia Historical Museum at 3340 Lake Street. Housed in a splendid Victorian home, this treasure is well maintained, with regular updates and changes to the displays. No musty atmosphere here!

After your visit, continue past the village on M-22, following it up a steep grade. Almost at the top you’ll find the famed Arcadia Scenic Turnout, aka Arcadia Overlook and Inspiration Point. Climb, climb, climb up the stairs for the best views of this Long Blue Line of Summer we call the coast of Lake Michigan, and linger awhile.

I urge you to make a reservation to stay overnight in Arcadia. The Pleasant Valley Resort Motel , Arcadia House Bed & Breakfast (Facebook page HERE) and Sunset Valley Resort offer excellent accommodations with interesting hosts and amenities. Tell them, “Milt sent us.”

Milton Whitmore lives in the Arcadia area with his wife Mary Grace and their four-legged canine companion. He taught middle school science and math in Onekama until his retirement. He is active with the Arcadia Lions Club.