Above photo by Kevin Howell.
By Kevin Howell
Editor’s note: This is updated from the original version published January 2022.
Like so many producers of alcoholic beverages I’ve met over the years, Russ Nicewander and his wife Melody began making home brews for personal consumption.
“It just kind of took off,” Russ commented, “I started making beer for myself. My wife liked her wine, and she said, ‘Well, you make your beer, and you won’t make me wine.’”
“I said, ‘I don’t know how to make wine.’ Well, I guess I learned.”
From backroom production, the winemaking business has been growing for the Nicewanders, with products distributed to several smaller mom-and-pop businesses in the area and seasonal farmers markets. Lynn and Perin Mercantile in Frankfort, Shop N Save in Ludington, the Dublin General Store near Wellston, Quenchers Corners in Stronach, Up North Market in Pentwater and others carry Backwoods Homemade Wines.
Victoria Mekas, co-owner of Lynn and Perin Mercantile, said the store’s special July tasting of Backwoods Homemade Wines “turned out great!” The Nicewanders set up a sampling table and the store sold several cases, which Mekas said “is really good.”
Differing from some other wines, Nicewanders’ contain a variety of fruits … but no grapes, for the most part. One exception is their pyment — a honey wine (mead) with added grape juice or grapes.
“Caribbean Cruise, yeah, that’s mango, banana, coconut, pineapple,” Russ chuckled at the unusual blend. “Yeah, I know; it’s sort of like a piña colada; it’s really popular if you can believe it.”
In all there are 25 flavors, including Russ’s favorite Black Cherry. Pear is a big seller, and there are unusual flavors such as Sumac (“It’s really good, I was surprised”), Rhubarb, Tomato, Banana and Lavender.
“If it’s a fruit, I’ll make wine out of it, just to try it,” he said.
According to the Nicewanders, their wines are handcrafted the old-fashioned way ⸺ made in small batches from hand-picked, hand-washed and processed real fruit. Russ said 90% of his wines are semi-sweet and 10% are dry.
The couple began making wine sometime prior to 2011, when they obtained a license.
“We were making wine a little before that, then everybody started buying it — guys at work stopping by. It just took off.”
“You’d be surprised at the amount of wine we make and sell,” Nicewander said. “It’s crazy.”
For my own taste buds, I enjoyed Russ’s favorite Black Cherry, but their Chocolate Cherry and Honey Crisp Apple wines were also tasty.
Although there isn’t an official tasting room yet, there is one in the planning stages, and tasting is available at farmers markets or by contacting the Nicewanders. Follow Backwoods Homemade Wines on Facebook.
Kevin Howell is a freelance writer residing in Mason County. He loves the Michigan woods, lakes, people and Michigan craft beers ⸺ not necessarily in that order!
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